Installing Prefinished Hardwood Flooring - Are you supposed to lay out a pattern with the planks before you ..
lock them in (tongue and groove) or are you just supposed to lay them down and lock them in as they come out of the box? You could have several boxes of long planks and then several boxes of short planks so half your floor is long planks and then the other half are short planks. You never know what is going to come out of those boxes; it is random.
http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/diy_kits/article/0,2019,DIY_13787_2275006,00.html
I am installing hardwood flooring. Can I use an underlayment with a naildown hardwood floor?
http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/diy_kits/article/0,2019,DIY_13787_2275006,00.html
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You are sopposed to open all packs and leave them laid flat in the room for 24 hrs to get used to the heat as wood can swell. Once this is done you can lay them in any order but it is best to start on a straight wall.
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before starting lay roofing felt as a moister barrier and it will also help with squeaking lay the floor opposite the direction of the floor joists be sure the new flooring is acclimated to the temperature conditions of your home lay long boards and short boards together making sure that all seams are staggered be sure to inspect each board surface and locker for defects before nailing boards with surface defects can still be used in hidden areas such as closets or under cabinets as a general rule of thumb the outside walls of a home are the straightest start there when ever possible keeping in mind the direction of the floor joists when measuring for natural wood flooring remember the waste factor of 15 to 20 percent to ensure you have enough to complete the job once you start and always be sure their is more product available from your supplier just in case
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professional flooring installer and flooring store owner
Certainly you should have a general plan in mind before you install.
The varying lengths are part of the design, as much as the species, and grain are. YOU as the "operator" obviously have a choice as to HOW you want the install to proceed with the various lengths, and probably will have to assume end cuts and waste, if not also, perimeter ripping, for a fit.
Hopefully you’ve "Squared" the area, even snapped a line or two, if you feel the need, measured what the scenario will be, even laid out by width, a total span of the stock, AND removed any cove base molding, or 1/4 round that might currently exist, or can be added after the fact. Leaving space for CUTS and OOPS is adviseable at the perimeters.
All things being ideal, and hopefully square, just begin, and create the pattern that not only suits you, but allows the least amount of waste. You should probably anticipate at least 10 % over, for waste and cuts.
Install as directed, Tapping, toe nailing, etc. and at the final course of planks you may have to install the outer perimeter first, let it bow, then install the next coarse out? Certainly during the process, at least start with one Square pair of opposing corners, and keep measuring throughout the process, distances to the opposing wall.
Without knowing at all any transition areas, IE: Doorways/passage ways/ wood to carpet or tile BUTTING, that should be part of the plan before the first nail is set.
Checking LEVEL, using underlayment, etc. ; should be obvious as well.
Steven Wolf
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45 plus years as a contractor