Flooring

Archive for January, 2010

I need to get some Hardwood FlooFlooring and I really want to increase the property value of my home and don’t want to go with laminate flooring, please help if you know.

You get what you pay for. Using cheap products could cause more problems than spending the money for good products.

I just recently picked up a batch of Armstrong red oak Hardwood FlooFlooring for a fantastic deal - enough to cover the space in my entry way at the basement level of my townhouse. Unfortunately, I’ve heard it shouldn’t be done due to moisture issues. Is this so? I considered (to keep the moisture locked out) leaving the existing vinyl floor (it’s literally a part of the concrete floor it’s so well attached) and laying right over it. I’m aware there’s an adhesive I need, regardless. Can anybody offer up some suggestions? Thanks!

I m assuming its an engineered wood. Such as 3/8" ( +- a bit).Yes you need to glue this down.There are special urethane glues and special notched trowels that needs to be used..I m also assuming this isn t a engineered self locking wood, these you don t glue and the underlayment is used as a barrier.The glue on a engineered wood floor will partially help on a regular cement as long as there is no major moisture issue.
Full 3/4 T&G hardwood cannot be glued down in this manner.
Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar. GL

This is in the bathroom. Right now we are down to the bare wood planks. What should we use as a sub floor before installing the vinyl Flooring?

Most commonly called luan, ( 1/4" smooth on one side ply) Screws, ring shanked nails or you can rent a special stapler to put it down with. Use a special joint compound on the seams and any small imperfections in the wood. Dries an matter of minutes , 1/2 hr at the most. Most commonly used for this is called Ardex, but there are others on the market.
Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar..GL